La Gran Milonga Nacional 2012

I took my dance class today, spent two hours doing a photo shoot, and then ate a LOT of home-cooked meat and a glass of wine: no milonga tonight!

However, instead of a milonga review, I have the first of the videos from the Gran Milonga Nacional ready! I danced with Santiago Asencio, another student of my teachers, Oscar Mandagaran and Georgina Vargas. Considering this is the first time we ever danced with each other (or met, for that matter), we did pretty well on a plywood stage where pivoting was difficult!

[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ppcq5lbMrLU?fs=1&feature=oembed] 

Stay tuned (someday) for the video that was taken of me dancing with Oscar!

 

Tomorrow, I am thinking of visiting the Feria de Mataderos with a friend. I promise lots of pictures if the weather is good and we go!

 

A few more milongas: branching out

El Maipu (La Casa de Galicia, San Jose 224, 1st floor)

Although I always go to Mondays at La Nacional, I had not been to Lucy and Dany's other milonga before. I had planned to go to Plaza Bohemia like last Friday, but I decided to experiment because I was given a discount coupon for this milonga last Monday at La Nacional. That means that I don't know the the actual price for this milonga. I paid 20 pesos (water cost 12 pesos).

My friends had told me that, even though the milonga supposedly starts at 6 PM, when they went at 6:30 PM, there was no one there. I went at 7 PM, and it was not very full. I stayed until 10 PM, and it never filled up all the way, but gradually improved in possible choices of partners. This would be a good place for intermediate dancers to get out on the dance floor (or brave beginners), at least early in the evening, because there was plenty of room to dance, with a lot of space between couples.

The level is pretty good, although not quite as good as La Nacional. You can see several of the regulars dancing in this YouTube video, which also gives you a sense of the space available.

I didn't dance with anyone amazing, but I didn't have any bad dances--except one. Someone asked me to dance, and then, part-way through the tanda, he wanted my arm hanging around his neck. I finished that dance with him, deciding to say "Gracias" after it; he was spared by the cortina. Luckily, I had some decent tandas after that that got me out of my foul mood.

Here is the lovely Lucy; Dany was busy with something, but I promised I'll take their picture together on Monday.

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Flor de Monserrat (Aires Tangueros, Av. Rivadavia 1392)

As Flor de Monserrat is only a few blocks from El Maipu, I showed up at 10 PM, when the milonga supposedly started. There was a class going on, and the guy at the door said the milonga starts at 10:30 PM. I went out to eat and came back around 11 PM.

Usually, I don't go to two milongas in the same night, but I had told a milonguero that I'd be at the first milonga he was going to, and I didn't go; so I decided to go to the second milonga he attends, at least for a little bit. This milonga costs 30 pesos. No waiter came by, so I never ordered water, as I was stuffed from dinner.

Without a reservation, I was socked in the corner where I could barely see across the (too dark) dance floor. I wasn't too worried, as I was already tired from a class, three hours of dancing, and too much food.

The level of folks I have danced with this visit reached a new low here. A man from Brazil dragged me around the dance floor mercilessly. Thank goodness the tanda was short and we started one dance into it: I was waiting for that third dance to be over in order to be polite. Hmm, I sound much less charitable than usual today. I think I reached the end of my patience with people who think they are good, but are not. I am always happy to dance with beginners who know they are beginners.

I danced with more people who ran into each other here than anywhere else so far. The floor here is very narrow, with room for one lane of dancers, and a middle space occupied by the less-skilled-at-navigation dancers. There is almost no way to avoid collisions if more than one leader on the dance floor does not navigate well (there were about three). I found it easy to navigate when I led here a few days ago, but I learned to lead at Torquato Tasso, where the milongueros tried to push me off the dance floor because I was a female leading. This is NOT a good milonga for beginners, and it is too dark to cabeceo easily.

Here is a video that shows the size of the space.

I danced a technically interesting tanda of Pugliese with the guy who taught the class before the milonga (I don't know his name), and two nice tandas of valses with guys who had a medium level of technique, but nice groove with the music.

I left around 12:45 to call my son before bedtime. People were still coming in, although the milonga ends at 2 am.

 

My vote so far

So far, although I love La Nacional, I vote for Sala Siranush/Siranoush (depends on which guide to tango you look at) BECAUSE I had my absolute most wonderful tanda so far this year there. Best compliment so far this year: "You dance as if you were born here in Palermo!" also belonged to that tanda.

La Nacional, you get another chance Monday!

 

 

 

Out and about

The weather today was so perfect that it's almost impossible to remember how awful it was yesterday. It's sunny, with medium temperatures, low humidity, a bit of a breeze: is this the same city??

Neotango visit #2

I bought another pair of shoes and dropped them off at the shoe repair I used last year, in order to compare quality of work with the other place I used this year. The shoes will be ready tomorrow: beautiful, black suede with cut-out details in the heels. Neotango strikes gold again!

By the way, those of you who don't like high, high heels, rejoice! Apparently, there is less of a demand for 9 cm heels (the high ones like I wear) because people have trouble dancing well in them. There is now more of a demand for 8.5 cm heels and lower heels. I must have looked alarmed, because I was assured that they would keep making the high ones for those of us who like them.

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Really, the salespeople there are some of the nicest I have met! I am not sure how to spell Ariel's name, but he is the one who usually helps me.

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Cheap clothes

Summer here can be a lot hotter than you think it will be. Although prices everywhere are higher than before, there are still some bargains around. One place I like to go for capris and summer T-shirts is Basicos Buenos Aires (Av. Rivadavia 2297). You can't try things on, as it's mostly a wholesale place where you can buy retail at a slightly higher price. It's all synthetic, but I use capris from that store at least every other day when I teach and it's warm. I bought a pair of capris for 50 pesos, and a sleeveless top for 30 pesos. At official prices, that's not too bad, and at "alternative market" prices, it's quite a deal.

 

Books in English

I go to Rincon 9 (new location, Junin 44) because they have a great selection of children's books in Spanish, and I am still clinging to the hope that my son will not lose all his Spanish now that he is in English-language school. However, Rincon 9 has an excellent selection of books in English as well. I don't know if they speak English there; I should have asked.

 

Nice person who rents rooms

I danced with a very nice man today at El Maipu who rents rooms in San Telmo. He has lived in San Telmo for 40 years! I have not seen his place, but I have heard of it from several people. Unlike a lot of people who are dancing in order to get students or provide other services, he didn't tell me about it until after we had discussed a bunch of other things.

 

The best ice cream I have had so far

I went back to Victoria Cafe (Av. Entre Rios 114, on the corner of Hipolito Yrigoyen, across the street from the Congreso building. We ate there quite a bit last year, so I went to see how it was this year. The waiter, Sergio, remembered me and asked after my friend; I took his picture for her.

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I ordered the special of the day (58 pesos), an amazing lasagna with spinach, sweet peppers, mushrooms, ham and some unidentified "meat" with "Parisian sauce" that came with homemade ice cream for dessert. I chose lemon, as it's my favorite flavor: WOW! I didn't remember artesanal ice cream from the year before, and the waiter told me that they had only begun making it a few months ago. Yummy, yummy, yummy! I just wish there had been less lasagna: I couldn't finish my ice cream!

I am walking everywhere this year, but I don't think I'm losing weight.

 

 

 

Tango en la calle: dancing on the Avenida de Mayo

Last Saturday night was one I don't think I will ever forget: I got to dance to three live tango orchestras, on the Avenida de Mayo! There was a man filming who films at the milongas. What he told us was that he likes to put up videos to show HOW to dance at the milongas. His video of us dancing will be up on his webpage in a few weeks. This five-minute  Aires de Milonga is a montage of things that were happening the night of the open-air milonga, along Avenida de Mayo. At 4:07, there is ONE second of me dancing :-)

A plug for Carlos Neuman, the videographer: this guy really loves tango, and he really wants folks to dance well. Also, since he regularly films in the milongas, he has some good footage for those of you who have not been here and want to see what it is "really" like. I don't usually take my camera along with me, and I usually just dance, so I am not very helpful in this category; he is.

There were 8000 square meters of dance space along the Avenida, according to the news (sorry if you don't speak Spanish). There were people everywhere, strolling, sitting and listening to music, dancing in flipflops, eating . . . I have never seen an area as stuffed with humans as the areas around the stages.

There was a pride and an energy surrounding the event that I have not felt before here. Dancers were discussing it days before. When I bought shoes, the saleswoman was talking with a guy buying shoes about their plans to dance. The tango world buzzed with excitement, and the the news coverage also had a tone that I usual hear reserved for futbol games!

 

 

Strikes, accidents and floods affect even tango-crazed tourists

Strikes and demonstrations

There was another rolling strike scheduled for today, so each subte line was supposed to be closed for three hours. On Sunday, I took the subte without paying because no one was at the ticket windows, and all the "emergency" gates were open for free access. Monday, there was a strike as well.

In addition to that, there are demonstrations going on for all sorts of things. I have been reading the papers, but I am not 100% up on everything going on in the judicial system re: free speech. A very impassioned woman at the milonga was telling me that a big demonstration had been cancelled for today, as the judges had decided to postpone a deadline for rights for two months.

On the way home from the milonga tonight, there was a gathering of youth on Avenida Callao near Congreso, that seemed to consist of large banners that I couldn't read (draped the wrong way); loud drums; beer-swigging young people; and shouting young people. Something about solidarity.

 

The toxic cloud

This morning, the news reported that a toxic pesticide from a Chinese ship at the port had burned, creating a toxic cloud of gas, headed for Buenos Aires. Since it was going to rain, we assumed that it would still probably be safe to go out. However, when I headed out for lunch, they sent us out of the subway and closed the doors. The downpour started at about the same time, and every taxi in sight was taken. After walking about six blocks and getting soaked, I finally found a taxi. Because of the traffic, it took forever to go just twenty or so blocks.

Later, the news reported that it was NOT a pesticide, that it was relatively not dangerous, and people should stop panicking. Frankly, I don't know which story to believe. My skin felt prickly when I was out, but that might just have been all the chemicals in the air here, added to the rain.

 

Flooding in Belgrano

We had over 111 millimeters of rain today in an hour (I was unfortunately outside for part of that), and Belgrano flooded. The news had pictures of people wading across streets, with police helping old ladies cling to lines stretched across the street, so that they were not swept away. There were videos of cars being swept down the street. I also saw footage of a guy canoeing down a street.

Even here, where there was no flooding, the streets were so full that it was impossible to avoid getting soaked at least to the knees when buses and cars went past, or from puddles that were too big to jump. I took a towel with me to the milonga to dry off enough to put my dance shoes on.

 

Low attendance at Lujos (El Beso, Riobamba and Corrientes)

I assumed that a lot of people would stay home because of the awful weather and consequently awful traffic; I was right. This footage shows a night with a LOT more people at the dance (this is what you normally see at El Beso).

Today, the milonga started at six. Since last week, I went later and had to sit in the second row, I went around 6:45ish. There were a total of eight people there, plus the wait staff. Even one of the organizers hadn't made it there yet, so the flustered person helping to seat me asked me what seat I wanted: that must be a first.

Eventually, the milonga filled up a bit. I danced until 10:15. At that point, I had danced with almost every guy in the place at least once. Interestingly, the rain seemed to have kept the male tourists away! I danced with Manuel, who is Spanish but lives here, and another guy who didn't look familiar, but who spoke Spanish. However, until about 10, I didn't see any foreign men come in (there were a few women who were obviously not Argentine).

I've noticed that, each year I come here, I go dancing earlier. Yes, I'm getting older. Yes, I like to call my son before his bedtime. Yes, I am happy to dance for three or four hours, instead of the whole night. However, I think this year there are more good afternoon dances AND since I get to dance pretty much every tanda, I get tired faster than the years when I sat out more.

Rejoicing that the rain had stopped at least for a while, I walked home, detouring to La Americana for my favorite tarta pascualina.

 

Milongas: Flor de Milonga and La Milonguita

Tuesday: Flor de Milonga (Aires Tangueros, Rivadavia 1392)

This was a new milonga for me. La Flaca Lucia and her partner, Gerry (an Irish guy) run this milonga.They are very friendly, comfortable folks. It was nice to be greeted with, "I saw you dance last night at La Nacional. You are good!"

The dance space is quite small, with barely room for the row of tables for "singles" on one side, but more room on the other side. Most people ordered food, and looked like they enjoyed it, so this would be a good place to eat and dance. I had already eaten, so I can't give a food review/prices.

This was the first day this milonga started at 7 PM, rather than at 10 PM. I decided to go early because it was free until 8 PM: probably a mistake. It was almost completely tourists (Lucia's students) for a while. Most of them were good enough dancers to be enjoyable. Only one was "Boy Scout" duty, but we should all do our community duty, right? Paybacks for all those milongueros who have danced with me in the past.

Things picked up when no one wanted to dance milonga, and the Italian woman next to me started bouncing around to the milonga. I invited her to dance, and she assumed she had to lead! We switched lead and follow, and had a BLAST! I hate to say it, but she was the best leader I've danced with who was a foreigner, and she was better than a lot of the Argentine men, as well. We did a vals set later. The nice thing was that this milonga is very relaxed, and the guys still danced with us. Later, I was told that one of the gay-friendly milongas happens at this place, so the regular milonga rules are relaxed here in terms of gender.

The evening continued to improve. I danced with one Argentine guy who was turned out to be a stage dancer: nice and dynamic, with fancier moves, but still paying attention to navigation and safety. When his friend showed up, he watched me and then pounced for the next tanda. Both of them danced well, and I did two tandas with each of them. It was the first time this trip that I could use all the turn technique and adorno technique I've been working on with Oscar and Georgina.

I had just changed my shoes to go home when they did the chacarera set, but I danced anyway.

 

Wednesday: La Milonguita (Sala Siranoush, Armenia 1353)

Sala Siranoush is part of a large structure with several buildings, which you reach by a gate at the street. You pay for the milonga right at the entrance (35 pesos), and there is a security guard as well.

The dance hall is beautiful, large, and air-conditioned. The room was not very full when I arrived at about 7:45, but by 8:30, it was pretty full. When I left around 11 PM, it was just starting to thin out a bit. On the whole, there was a good feeling in the room, with tables of men and tables of women alternating around the dance floor. It was pretty much impossible for me to even see the folks at the other end, but I dance all but two tandas; one of them was a choice not to dance because the music was a bit strange.

Although I have danced many times at La Viruta across the street, this was a new venue for me: two new places in two nights! This was the first time I went dancing where I had to take a taxi home. It cost 40 pesos, but it was worth it!

I had the best tanda of my visit so far. I think he said his name was Horacio. Two of the three women at my table went home, and the other woman said, "Quick! That guy across the room is looking at you! He is REALLY good!" And he was. Wow! There was feeling in every step. There was no "get used to each other" part of the first dance: it just worked immediately. We were in the zone. After the first dance ended, we just grinned stupidly at each other for a moment before starting to talk. Lovely, lovely, lovely!

 

 

 

Shoe repair, pedicures, and an easy way to use the bus if you are done walking

Cromo for shoes

After buying shoes the other day, I waited to go to the shoe repair. I had used one I liked last year, but my friends said her prices had doubled (40 to 80 pesos per pair of shoes) for putting suede (cromo) on the bottom of the soles. So, I waited to try out their new guy, who reportedly charges only 50-60 pesos per pair.

No such luck: he is now charging exactly the same price as the other lady. He was fast, efficient, but not friendly. Still, it's useful to have more than one choice:

  1. Ayacucho 284 (the one I used this year)
  2. Sarmiento 1882 (the one I used last year)

Given the prices, I think I'm going to try to find the shoe repair one of my students recommended in Portland: it couldn't cost that much more, could it?

 

Pedicure

I went back to the same place I used last year, Claudio Zapulla Peinados (Ayacucho 57). The same woman did the same fabulous job on my feet. They feel no fear of the razor here: my person at home would never shave that much dead skin off my feet! It cost 100 pesos, up 25 pesos from last year.

 

City buses

Although I have been mostly walking places, I just found an awesome site that replaces the ancient bus map that I carry around: City Buses in Buenos Aires. What used to take 10-15 minutes to look at two different pages, compare bus routes, and then look up the route to figure out what street it went down, took less than a minute online. Yay!

 

Milongas: Lujos on Sunday, El Maipu on Monday

Although it is getting hotter and hotter, the milongas are air-conditioned, making them feel cool, despite the press of humans inside.

Lujos (Plaza Bohemia), Alsina 2540

Yes, I am sticking to my neighborhood a lot this year. Notice that I've been to two different milongas at Plaza Bohemia; two different Lujos milongas (Plaza Bohemia and El Beso), and now have wandered a few blocks down Alsina. Tonight I will probably to over to Nuevo Chique, which is only a block or two from La Nacional. With taxis costing almost 10 pesos just to put the flag up, I am walking a lot more. Plus, there are great milongas in my neighborhood!!

The dance floor at Plaza Bohemia lists towards the door. After a dance or two, you can feel that there is a definite tilt. However, the dancers accept it, grimace, and readjust; if not, we'd all be in a heap at the one edge!

The tables are arranged all around the floor, with a "guys" side, a "ladies" side (more or less), the most-populated side a mix of male and female tables, with a few larger groups; and most of the tables for couples on the other side or in the back.

Sunday, I had a table one back from the edge, and didn't get as many dances as the other night when I have a ringside seat. On the other hand, I felt exhausted, and I have noticed that the days I don't really feel like dancing, I apparently send off some kind of signal that says, "Leave me alone!" I still got to dance enough to make me happy, with a few breaks to make a list of "guys to avoid" and "guys to cabeceo" in my head. For the first time, I had someone thank me for looking at them! He was Argentine, but obviously more of a beginner. I now do what I call "Boy Scout" dances wherever I go: I dance with almost anyone once, even if they are not very good. After all, they will never get better if all the women avoid them!

Yes, the fans are back! Men, women--everyone--has a fan. Garish fans are everywhere, especially on the men's tables. Perhaps the women pick theirs to go with an outfit, and the guys just grab a fan? As I passed his table, I noticed that one guy I tend to dance with for valses was using the same hot-pink fan that I bought last year. I love that everyone uses a fan. Too bad they are all from China!

El Maipu (La Nacional), Alsina 1465

It felt great to be back at La Nacional. It is a popular milonga, as is always very crowded. This time, I remembered to call for reservations. Even so, we were at the second table back at the end of the room (they have redesigned how the tables are arranged, so there are fewer tables at the side and more at the end.

The only problem I had with that space last year, was the slippery floor. This year, the floor feels wonderful. Someone told me that they had a new floor put in, imported from Slovenia. I don't know if this is true, but it is a new floor, and it is nice!

I met up with Sarah, who had been living in Portland this fall. We went to the milonga together, so I actually have teeny clips of me dancing! Thank you Sarah! It is pretty much impossible to see down the line of dance, even to get a cabeceo for dancing; so it was not possible to follow me dancing :-)

[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cGGLPUh8I5g?fs=1&feature=oembed] 

Here is another one, also very short (the video and the guy!):

[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tdK3gO3hnas?fs=1&feature=oembed] 

Guys: this is why I keep working on having you dance in small spaces! Practice, practice, practice!

Although the length of the room made it impossible to cabeceo a few guys I usually dance with who were at the opposite end of the room, there were plenty nearby. I sat out the first tanda of milongas, but otherwise, danced the entire time we were there.

 

 

 

Music day!

Today I went in search of music. Where? Lavalle 2039, Piso 1. Buenos Aires Tango Club. You need to ring the bell, and a voice mumbles something. Ask for Euro Records or Buenos Aires Tango Club, and they will open two sets of doors via buzzer. They are open M-F, 11-6ish.

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These folks at Buenos Aires Tango Club/Euro Records are a treasure trove of information--and that's with the director on vacation! Plan time into your schedule to visit, especially if you like to learn about tango music. I never make it out of there in under an hour (it was almost two hours today, I think). They are extremely helpful and knowledgible, and I emerge with my head stuffed with new information. Sometimes, I even remember some of it!

I remembered my list for some friends: a lot of Canaro with Maida singing, some Rodriguez, some d'Arienzo. I forgot my own list, and ended up with a completely different bunch of CDs than I had planned. Now that I have found my list, I will probably go over next week again and pick up a few more.

What did I get?

  • More Lomuto, a favorite of mine. 
  • Canaro with Maida singing: after listening to the songs I was buying for a friend, I bought some myself. However, a guy came in while I was there and wanted one CD: the one I'd just bought, and there were no more copies. I earned karma points: I handed over my copy.    
  • Some great d'Arienzo from the early 1940s.
  • Di Sarli with Podesta and Rufino singing. 
  • Pugliese from the early-mid-40s.
  • A CD of "forgotten" orchestras: Today I met Cayetano Puglisi; Luis Petrucelli; Juan Guido; Carlos Marcucci; Juan Canaro; Roberto Zerrillo; Juan Carlos Cobian; and Francisco Lauro.
  • Alfred de Angelis with Oscar Larroca singing. I heard this at Plaza Bohemia on Sunday evening, and asked the DJ what he had played. I had never heard the songs, and they were really intense. Thus, a new CD and perhaps a new favorite tanda for a while!

The main thing I forgot to get was Fresedo. I am enjoying his music more than I ever have before, and I want some more to play. Ah, well, their office is only a few blocks away.

 

Teatro Colon, Recoleta and a beer: a perfect, sunny Sunday!

Today is perfect: blue sky, breezy, almost hot: heaven!

Teatro Colon

One of my students scolded me for never doing anything "cultural" when I am in Buenos Aires, so I walked down to Nueve de Julio, and strolled over to Tucuman. I took the guided tour of the Teatro Colon (Tucuman 1171). It costs 110 pesos for the tour, which is offered in several languages. The one in English was the next in line when I got there, so I took the tour in English.

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What a beautiful building! There are four or five different kinds of marble: white, yellow, red, green . . . all from different places in Europe. Gilt, statues and stained glass are everywhere. When we went upstairs to the Grand Hall (the place the rich used to socialize before and after the opera), I thought, "Wow! this looks like the old Paris Opera building!" and then the guide said it was modeled after that building. I felt very cultural and smug.

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After the tour, I wandered around the Gardens behind the theater, which have a photo installation of the history of the opera house, along with photos of famous stars who have danced/acted/sung here. There is classical music playing; the last jacaranda blossoms are finishing; and lavender bloomed everywhere.

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Recoleta Cemetary

I took the subway to Pueyrredón and Santa Fe, and then walked the rest of the way to Recoleta Cemetary (15-20 minutes). If you don't like walking, I'd suggest taking the bus or a taxi from here.

I don't know why I like the cemetary so much, but I do. I like to wander around, then sit and think in the quiet that surrounds the area, even with tourists and songbirds flying around. I saw one mausoleum opened up, and an old man wandered by with a vase of flowers and water. I like that not all the dead are forgotten.

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Lunch at Buller Brewing Company (Pte. Roberto M. Ortiz 1827)

I have never been a fan of Argentine beer, as most are pilsners, and I am not a lover of pilsner. However, I wandered past a brewpub facing Recoleta Cemetary, and decided to see how it stood up to the brewpubs in my neighborhood in Portland, Oregon. The verdict: not bad!

I had a half pint of their IPA (25 pesos), and it tasted great on a hot, sunny, late spring day. If I were not such a lightweight, I would have tried their sampler of six beers (50 pesos): stout, honeybeer, hefeweizen, IPA, pilsner and I forgot what the sixth one was. I had a plate of luscious, squash and spinach (and nut?) filled ravioli (49 pesos), covered in bolognese sauce (18 pesos). The whole meal cost about what I pay in my local brewpub at home for a glass of beer and some pasta.

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Changing prices and Buenos Aires

Despite huge changes in the price of living in the past two years, people are surviving. I have seen fewer street people, and folks seem less upset than last year. The Abasto mall was stuffed with families shopping. The stores alongCorrientes were full. The sidewalks were full. It was great to see so many people out enjoying their city. I walked for about two hours, shopping and strolling to get back into my big city mode (I LOVE Buenos Aires: have I mentioned that recently?).

Many items that used to be cheaper here now seem to cost more than in the United States. For example, I am shopping for a watch, having lost mine a week before coming to Buenos Aires. The cheapest watch I have seen so far cost about $30 US, with most costing $50-500. The self-winding watch I have been coveting at Sears for $150 seemed high, but a woman in a watch shop here quoted me about $400 for that kind of watch. Wow.

Shoes

Shoes have gone up slightly in price. Two years ago, most of the shoes cost about $110. Last year, they were $140ish. Today, I paid between $130 and $150something a pair. However, some stores have posted very good prices for paying in dollars (either 4.84 pesos to the dollar officially, or up to 6 pesos, which is almost up to the "alternative" money market price), so it makes sense to bring cash.

I bought shoes at Artesanal (Jean Jaures 465) and Neotango (Sarmiento 1938).

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Artesanal has a new shop, but it's only about a block away from where it was before: right near the Abasto subte stop. The woman there is friendly and truly awesome about finding shoes for people who are not in the shop. Bring her the outline of a foot, and she has never failed me yet (cross your fingers!) in finding shoes that will fit that person well. The stock is small, but the shoes are well-made and last a long time.

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At Neotango, the folks recognized me. I was surprised that they remembered, although between us, Gayle and I probably bought ten pairs of shoes there last year (or more). What nice people! They deal all day with uppity shoppers, and still smile. There was a very rude lady complaining that they had told her the wrong price and needed to speak more clearly (she didn't speak Spanish), and they were very nice to her. Nice salespeople go a long way with me.

Stay tuned for the new shoe repair place. I am told it's much more reasonable in price than last year's place, but I haven't been there yet.

 

Clothing

I stopped by Tango Imagin (Tomas de Anchorena 606). The people who run it also make the clothing, so they are very helpful about fabric, colors, etc. Also, if you have time, they can custom-make stuff for you and/or alter the clothing in the store. I had planned to buy something there this year, but none of the halter tops were available in a 3 that day (let's just say that a size 2 looks like a sausage on me), and the skirts, while very beautiful, didn't flatter my shape. I would check here first if you were looking for performance gear: beautiful, flowy things!

Tango-imagen

 

Right next door to Tango-Imagen is Tango Ocho. I didn't go there this year, but in the past, I have bought a lot of things here. The attitude amongst the sales staff varies from somewhat friendly to completely disinterested. Unlike all the other stores I've been to in Buenos Aires, the shopgirls have no opinions, no ideas to improve your tango image, and don't want to help. On the other hand, there is one man who works there who is wonderful with fitting shoes.

Tango_8

 

 

 

Plaza Bohemia, a lesson, and a shopping frenzy: what a day!

Lesson with Oscar and Georgina

I had my first lesson of the trip today with Oscar Mandagaran and Georgina Vargas. Oscar has been my main teacher since 2000, and Georgina for the past five years. They rock, which is why they are my teachers! At least here I don't have to argue with everyone that they are stage dancers. Here, people know that they dance social dance milonga. Yes, they also dance on the stage, but they are not stage dancers. They are simply the best, in my humble opinion.

For the first time ever, we didn't start by working on my walk! I guess that means I am starting to get there. It's nice to hear your teachers say things like, "Wow! You haven't lost very much in the year since we've seen you! Ok, let's get to work!" instead of "What happened???" which is what they asked last year.

I have quite a list of things I want to accomplish in ten days of lessons, but it's nice when they say I am entering a higher stage of dancing. Yay!

 

Shopping frenzy

Georgina has started her own line of clothing, so I've already spent most of my clothing budget without going to any stores. I have some new skirts; two top/skirt outfits; a new top/pants outfit; and a dress cut down in the back so far that it's almost indecent, in a lovely blue print that I'll wear as soon as I figure out a way to keep it on better.

Don't worry, shoppers! I will still wander through the stores and give you a what's-hot list, but I probably won't buy much more myself.

 

Plaza Bohemia (Alsina 2540)

I used to go to the Friday afternoon dance at Centro Leonesa (Nino Bien). If you remember from last year's blog and the year before, that was always my favorite milonga. It moved, apparently because of the cost of the room rental. Now, it is called Plaza Bohemia, and is at Alsina 2540. Definitely not as high-class in terms of the space, but a lot of the same folks go, so the level is fair.

The price is lower than at Lujos, which cost 35 pesos. This milonga cost 25 (and the water was 12, instead of 14 pesos).

I got there later than I had planned, about 8 PM (it runs from 6 PM until 2 am, but when I left around 11:30, it was starting to thin out). Apart from sitting out a tanda to find the waitress and get water, I danced the entire time. I got a nice spot at a front table. It did not let me see behind me, but I had a good view of the rest of the room.

The music was really good, a nice mix of 1930s and 1940s music, but a tanda of Pugliese cleared the floor. Age-wise, I was probably almost the youngest person there, but there was a mix of middle-aged and elderly folks. I have seen many of the same people at Salon Canning in the afternoons. If you want to do the "scene" for tango, this is NOT the place. If you want to just go and dance, with none of the "Here's my card, I teach tango" or the "Hey, Baby!" comments, this is a good place.

 

 

 

 

Good hair day

The only time I ever got my hair done in Buenos Aires before this was when a flamingly gay milonguero did it back in about 2000 ("DARLING, how could you THINK I was gay? I am in LOVE with you!"). I wonder what happened to him?

Today, I got a haircut, color and eyebrow wax at Claudio Zappulla Peinados (Ayacucho 57, 4953.6584). The service was cheerful and fast, and I like the results. I asked if they had someone who speaks English in case someone comes in who does not speak Spanish, and they said that one worker does speak English (I didn't meet her). They were having a special, so cut, color and eyebrows cost me about 200 pesos + tip. That's $43 US at today's official exchange rate.

 

Back in Buenos Aires

Lujos (at El Beso), 11/29/12

I arrived this morning, with no sleep. I've never stayed up the entire flight. I did try to sleep, but without any results. With a two-hour nap under my belt, I headed out to the newly reopened El Beso. 

El Beso had been closed because of failing to meet saftey codes. As far as I can tell, the new "safety features" only include a wider door to the outside, but I assume there are more. It would be nice if the speaker in the far corner were turned down; another safety feature to protect our ears!

I arrived between 7:30 and 8 PM. I had planned to go earlier, but didn't. The milonga starts at 6 PM, and Georgina had suggested going around 6:30 to get a good seat, and to have a better chance of dancing, before the regulars all arrived. I got a seat in the middle of the far wall, on the second row (the front row are regulars) Between 8 and 8:30, many of the regular women did show up, but it didn't seem to change dance opportunities. When a regular sat back at my table, the other women asked her why, and she told them she was tired and didn't feel like dancing!

It was great to see a bunch of familiar faces. I sat out only one or two tandas the entire evening, thanks to that. The dance level was better than last year, perhaps because several of the guys I danced with last year have gotten a LOT better over the year.  One grinned at me and said, "Well I do go dancing every night!"

In terms of dance style, I saw a lot less extreme apilado (leaning style) than was usual ten years ago. I would say that half the guys danced with a V that allowed me to pivot my hips and actually dance. About half insisted on holding me as if we were dancing apilado (square), but then danced on their own track. This is harder on my body, but I can extricate my legs from back ochos, etc. when I have to. I know I keep telling you guys in Portland not to walk in front of me: NO ONE danced square in front of me. After all, there is no room to maneuver.

This was a friendly crowd. Only one guy decided to correct me on my dancing while we danced. After I was goaded into saying, "I was on that foot! I did what you asked; I just added an adorno!" he chuckled and left off teaching as much. I don't plan to dance with him again. Here is the catty comment I managed to avoid saying: "If you would actually lead me clearly, we would both be having a better time of this!"

I went home early at about 11 PM. When my stomach started making audible conversation with my partners, I figured it was time for dinner and more sleep.

 

Beginner's Luck

in 1999, the first night I ever went dancing in Buenos Aires, I danced almost all night, despite being in street shoes (Clark's) and not being dressed to dance. My friend, Silvana, took me on a tour of places to dance in the neighborhood on the way to dinner, and we never made it to dinner because she convinced me to have a glass of wine at Almagro (I miss that place!). She doesn't dance, despite having taken tango from me when studying in the United States, so when someone came over and asked her to dance, she made them dance with me. After that, I danced a bunch before finally going out to dinner a few hours late. I was in heaven!

My favorite dance of the evening was with a tiny, wizened old man, who stopped in the middle of the dance and said, "Did you see that? That's my step! I made that up!" and then kept dancing.

 

Food for the day

My favorite food in Buenos Aires also comes from that first day in Buenos Aires in 1999. Silvana made me a tarta pascualina, a pastry shell with either swiss chard or spinach and egg filling. Last night, I picked up a hot slice at La Americana in the 'hood, and went home to eat. Oh, and a cheese and onion empanada. Yum!

Prices are definitely higher than last year. The water at the milonga was 14 pesos. Last year, water was 6-10 pesos. My dinner takeout was 24 pesos, also higher than last year.

Top 10 class: Lateral ocho cortado

Although many people in the USA teach "the" ocho cortado, there are tons of variations of this step in reality. I use these a lot in my dance, and teach two variations in my Top 10 Tango Moves class, and four or five other ones in my Next 10 Tango Moves when I teach milonga.

The easiest version is lateral ocho cortado. This version does not require the follower to pivot, making it both elegant and easy to do, even as a beginner.

Lateral ocho cortado

 

Explanation in words:

  1. Leader does a rebound (rock step, traspie, whatever you like to call it) forward line-of-dance, beginning with the left foot, and comes back to place. Follower does a back-front, stepping back on the right and forward on the left, back to place. Remember that you each have your own "lane" instead of stepping in front of your partner.
  2. Leader steps back one step with the left. Make sure that you use contrabody (facing the follower) to allow both people to stay in their own "lane" and thus not step on each other. Follower steps forward with the right.
  3. Leader does a side rebound and returns to place (right, left). Follower does a side rebound simultaneously, starting with the left and returning to place on the right foot.
  4. Leader does contrabody to right (normal contrabody) and steps line-of-dance with the right. Follower steps back with the left.

Timing:

  1. All slow counts. This takes six slow counts.  I prefer this way as it is more elegant for milonga and tango, unless the music is too slow. I also prefer this way for fast vals.
  2. Quick quick slow, quick quick slow, with the rebounds being quick, quick, and the steps being slow. This works well for slow vals (remember that in this case, the counts are not even), and for slow milonga, as well as for tango in a rhythmic tune.

Note on stepping back

Many of my students have looked alarmed and said, "Step BACK??" Yes, however, I often do this step on a slight diagonal, so that I can see over my shoulder. That way, if I am thinking of backing up, I know whether I have room to take a step back or not. This move works well with two walking steps to start, in which case, you are only backing up one of those initial steps. In a crowded space, remember that steps can be SMALL!

 

OK, go practice!



Om Studio tango class schedule

I teach all my group classes at the Om Studio, 14 NE 10th Ave. (between Burnside and Couch). Here's what's going on:

Body Dynamics (7 PM Mondays, mostly intermediates and advanced dancers)

Body Dynamics is a class that trains the body for Argentine Tango. We spend about twenty minutes doing tango-specific stretches for the body to warm up and gain flexibility. Then, we spend about twenty minutes on drills and exercises that strengthen the body and prepare for dancing with a partner. Usually, we work on walk, turn and pivot technique, and then move into drills for the movements I am teaching that week in my 8 PM Monday and 8 PM Thursday classes. After that, we work in pairs (sometimes leader-follower, sometimes not) to use the skills we've been learning.

Dress to stretch and lie on the floor! Please bring socks AND your dance shoes. Although most of the dancers in the class are intermediate and advanced students, there are always beginners taking the class who want to start tango with the best technique possible.

 

Take it to the next level (8 PM Mondays, advanced only)

My advanced class learns a challenging combination each week. We focus on connecting steps, making smooth transitions, dancing musically, and polishing each piece of the combination so that it looks better and feels better for the couple. This class encourages using the class material to improvise and find new vocabulary or combinations for social dancing. Most of the material I teach is from my teachers Oscar Mandagaran and Georgina Vargas, with my other teachers' work surfacing from time to time.

No partner necessary. I expect that participants already have a knowledge of the vocabulary of tango, in order to gain the most benefit from the class. I suggest three years of experience in general, but many of my students are ready for this class in 1.5-2 years of dancing.

 

Top 10 Tango Moves (7 PM Thursdays, beginners and intermediates)

Most of us have had a teacher who tells us that most dancers in Buenos Aires have only a few moves, but they do them VERY well. This class is designed to do just that: examine in deep detail ten moves that I think all tango dancers should know how to do well. Although the content shifts as I work on meeting the needs of my current group of students, this class usually covers:

  • walking Buenos Aires style (caminata, circulo, etc.)
  • right and left turns
  • walking to the cross in parallel and crossed systems
  • lateral ocho cortado
  • circular ocho cortado
  • traveling turns
  • 180-degree turns (walking turns)
  • forward ochos
  • traveling back ochos
  • pausas and adornos
  • the embrace, energy and connection
  • introduction to milonga, tango and tango vals music
  • cultural information and tango vocabulary to make dancing tango easier

I teach this class as a mix of beginners and intermediates because it helps the beginners learn faster, and challenges the intermediates to REALLY get the material down in order to dance well with anyone. Most people take this at least twice before moving on to the Next 10 class.

 

Next 10 Tango Moves (8 PM Thursdays, intermediates and advanced intermediates)

The Next 10 Tango Moves class takes students who are moving on from the Next 10 class, and introduces them to new material each week. I cycle through the year, so that very little material is repeated more than once; many people take this class for a year or more before tackling the Monday night advanced class.

At least once a year, I offer a milonga class for one ten-week session. At least once a year, I offer a tango vals class. For the rest of the sessions, we tackle tango vocabulary:

  • sacadas
  • paradas & pasadas
  • ganchos
  • boleos
  • drags
  • leg wraps
  • turn variations
  • enrosques, quebradas and other fancy leader moves
  • adornos and other follower technique to make the dance look/feel good
  • using crossed system
  • playing with the "outside partner" moves of tango
  • traspie variations
  • musicality, energy and connection
  • etc.

There is a level for everyone at the Om! Also, I teach private lessons for those who would like to work in more detail, learn material faster(or slower!), or who would like to work intensively with one specific partner. Many of my students take both private and group lessons.

Sessions are six weeks long and cost $60 (or $90 for both classes). Drop in rates are $12/class for all classes. Come try it out!

Beginner's Mind Practica (6 PM Thursdays)

Practicing is not only for beginners: it is important to continue practicing at all levels, in order to constantly improve. The Beginner's Mind practica was started to create a friendly, helpful space for beginners to get out and dance socially, before heading out to milongas. However, many regulars are intermediate and advanced intermediate dancers. The rule is: no feedback unless the person wants it. That's the only rule. When someone new comes, I make it a point to introduce them to the regulars, who dance with the new folks. Every few songs, I steal the new person and introduce them to someone new. This is a friendly group who will dance with any level of dancer: we are community builders! We WANT you to start/keep dancing tango! After a few weeks, most dancers feel comfortable enough for me to stop helping them get partners. I am available to answer questions and help throughout the practica. Cost: by donation.

Using the quebrada to add power to your dance

The quebrada ("broken") is an old tango move. According to John Charles Chasteen in "Black Kings, blackface carnival, and nineteenth century origins of the tango" (in Latin American Popular Culture: An Introduction, pp. 43-60), quebrada comes from a parent dance of tango, the candombe.  Candombe was done with quebrada, which meant that there was a break in the line of the body at the waist "to generate sinuous, subtle, flowing motion, without bounding knees or flailing limbs" (Chasteen 2000:46).

In modern tango, quebrada allows the leader to twist, so that the follower can turn around a stable center that is really anchored. This makes turns and changes of direction have a lot more power, as the leader is not easily destabilized. It also looks cool! Don't we all want that "sinuous, subtle, flowing motion?"

Main points to remember:

  • In the quebrada position, 70% of your weight is on your front foot, and 30% is on the back foot.
  • Make sure your knees "kiss" each other, with the front of one knee pressed against the back of the other knee.
  • Make a tripod with your feet: your back foot is behind and slightly sideways to your main support foot. I see a lot of folks try to do this with their feet touching, or right behind each other like a tightrope walker. Try to make a wider stance, and you'll find you have better balance.
  • Continue the twist of the quebrada all the way from the floor to your embrace. The spiral in your body allows for a LOT of energy to be generated for movement, or absorbed from the follower.

Here's a clip from Body Dynamics class summarizing this in picture form.

Here's a clip of my teacher, Oscar Mandagaran, rocking the quebrada with Georgina Vargas.  Notice how many times he uses the shape of the quebrada in this performance. And, yes, it's not their social dance tango. Yes, it's show tango, BUT he uses it like this on the dance floor, too.

 

 

 

 

Lapiz: Using lapiz as a simple adorno, and in turns

The lapiz, or "pencil" is an adornment for the leader.  When used in a turn, the leader draws a quarter circle (more or less) on the ground to mark the path of the follower's back cross, side and forward cross steps of the turn.

Exercises for disassociation (to prepare for doing the lapiz and other fancy stuff)

These are exercises from Oscar Mandagaran, Luciana Valle, and Chicho Frumboli. You can use them to develop the ability to move upper and lower body parts at different times, without falling over. This disassociation of the body refers to remaining on axis, but rotating around the axis: rotating the chest to turn the follower without moving the hips, or executing an ocho for the follower twisting the lower body more than the torso.

  1. Step forward with the right foot. I leave my left foot back to feel the twist of the body, but this is not necessary.
  2. When you are on axis, rotate around your axis to the right (clockwise, CW).
  3. After you twist to your maximum, let the twist resolve by allowing the hips to rotate until your body is in neutral again (hips/solar plexus pointing the same direction).
  4. At first, this may be only a quarter turn. Remember, the follower's movement in the turn provides some momentum for the leader's pivot in a "real" turn. Do not wind up with your arms, shoulders, butt, etc., in order to turn faster. Once the mechanics are working in slow motion in a small rotation, you will find it easy to turn further and/or faster.

After this is working, add another section (preparation for enrosques, drags, etc.):

  1. As the hips return to neutral in #4, don't stop them! Keep rotating your hips until they are ahead of the torso.
  2. Continue the torso's motion until it is neutral above the hip's position.

I use this same motion to prepare for some kinds of drags and enrosques. In these moves, I need to lead the follower with a consistent motion, but I need to get ready for another move for myself at the same time. Using these drills helps the body memorize the feeling of keeping the torso with the follower, while doing something else. After years of working on this drill, I can depend on my body to do the movement correctly in the heat of the dance, rather than just on the practice or class dance floor.

Lapiz Technique

  • The leader stands on one foot.
  • While leading a turn (if the leader is standing on the left leg, turn to the right, or CW), the leader makes a quarter circle with the free foot on the floor and collects it back under him/her. I think "Noon to 3 o'clock" to get the right shape.
  • For me, the lapiz does not change level.  That is, I don't sink into it and then rise again. I try to maintain the same level so that the follower's turn is not disturbed.
  • Because a turn is occurring while the lapiz happens, it FEELS as if the lapiz is much bigger. Do NOT make a bigger sweep ("noon to six o'clock") with your leg to get momentum: let the follower's turn make the momentum, based on your body's disassociation/rotation around the axis.
  • In the variation we learned last week, the lapiz ends with a front parada (stop) and stepover for the follower. In this case, the quarter circle gets a little tail, as the leader completes the lapiz and then extends the foot again to block the follower's path for the parada.

The lapiz itself is not difficult, but doing it while still leading the follower to turn around the leader can be tricky. The leader's chest needs to turn (as usual) to make the follower turn. The leader is standing on one leg during the turn and moving the other leg without disturbing the balance of the hips. In order for the movement to work, the torso and hips need to disassociate from one another, without losing the axis of the body.

Lapiz as an adorno

Using lapiz as an adorno is a very short clip from Body Dynamics class a few weeks ago. We learned this in the Next 10 Tango Moves class last session.

Lapiz in turns

You can also use the lapiz in turns. We learned this in the Next 10 Tango Moves class, and have been using it in longer combinations in the advanced class this past session. Here is a short clip from Body Dynamics class, reviewing what we've been working on.

 

Note to followers: The energy and precision of the follower's turn helps the leader to achieve an elegant lapiz. For me, the follower is the "motor" of this move, but does not take over. Give the leader your best turn, keeping the steps equidistant to the center of the circle (the leader). As the leader becomes more comfortable turning on one foot, this will become easier for both of you.

What is Body Dynamics class all about?

Bonnie Stockman came up to me in my technique class last December, and said, "You know, you really should call this class Body Dynamics instead of Heel Camp, because this is stuff guys need to know, too." She was right, so I changed the name to reflect the real aim of this class.

Body Dynamics is about learning to dance tango with elegant, sensuous power. It is about learning to use your body efficiently, so that you have reserves to pull out when your partner and/or the music demand more from you. It is about mastering balance, axis, breath--all the challenging parts of tango. It is about finding your own voice and energy within the dance to make it YOUR dance.

What do we do in Body Dynamics? If you look at my recent posts with videos, you can see some of what we have been working on recently. This is a serious class that yields major results in flexibility, technique and dance level, in a short time. We start with about twenty minutes of tango-specific stretches: a combination of what my teacher, Georgina Vargas, taught me; with other stretches culled from my 25 years of teaching dance. Then, we do drills and exercises for the remainder of class. Each week, I focus on something that will be used in the advanced class, so that the dancers who take both are really ready to take the underlying work and DANCE it for the next hour. I also work on something for my students who take my intermediate/advanced intermediate class on Thursdays at 8 PM.

For example, one week last session, we worked on lapiz for the leaders. My advanced intermediate class then learned to use lapiz in a turn with a parada, while the advanced class incorporated it into a three-turn combination with an enrosque and leader adornos. That week, we focused on back pivots for followers, to make both turn combinations work with more power. We also learned a fun adorno for giros that helps the follower stay aligned better on tight/fast turns.

It's not too late to join the current session, even though it's the second week of the session. Sign up for Body Dynamics and the advanced class at 8 PM for $90, or take either session for $60 for six weeks; or drop in and check it out for $12. The Om Studio is at 14 NE 10th, just off Burnside. See you there!

Adornos in Body Dynamics class

Last week, we worked a lot on adornos.  Here is the video summary of class--yes, I think I finally figured out how to convince my computer to talk to YouTube (by NOT using my video editing program :-() and YouTube to talk to my blog!

 

[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I0lGC2p3GOU?fs=1&feature=oembed] 

 

Adornos we worked on:

  • lineas (lines)
  • circles (circulos or firuletes)
  • amagues
  • "the elevator"
  • "shine your shoes"
  • "double Georgina"
  • "raise and lower" (sube y baja)
  • "floor caress"
  • toquecitos (little touches)

YouTube has refused to save my video as unlisted, so any of you who know how to convince it otherwise, let me know!